A Legacy of Creativity and Economic Contribution
London Fashion Week (LFW), the bi-annual event that showcases the best of British fashion, is celebrating its 40th anniversary. From the legendary moments of John Galliano’s debut collection to Alexander McQueen’s extraordinary spectacles, LFW has been a platform for groundbreaking creativity in the fashion industry. Not only is it a hub of innovation and talent, but it also contributes significantly to the British economy, employing 900,000 people and contributing around £21 billion.
The Brainchild of Lynne Franks
LFW owes its existence to the visionary PR legend Lynne Franks, who conceived the idea and brought it to life. In the early 1980s, there were no central schedules or spaces to attract international buyers to London. Inspired by the fashion tents in Paris, Franks took the initiative to establish LFW. With the support of her client Mohan Murjani and sponsorship from Swatch and Harrods, the event found its first venues at the Commonwealth Institute and later the Duke of York Barracks.
A Vibrant and Influential Event
During its early years, LFW attracted fashion icons, celebrities, and even royalty. Madonna and Princess Diana were among the notable attendees, adding to the event’s vibrant atmosphere. However, a shift occurred when the trade show at Olympia felt excluded, leading to the event moving further west. Despite the setback, LFW continued to inspire and innovate, with French and Saunders even drawing inspiration for the beloved comedy Absolutely Fabulous from the fashion world.
A Balancing Act: Money and Talent Drain
Throughout its history, LFW has faced the challenge of balancing financial sustainability and retaining talented designers. In the 1990s, the event was on the brink of cancellation until a last-minute injection of funds saved it. The New Gen initiative and the recession of the time gave rise to breathtaking talent like Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan. The creativity that emerged during this difficult period demonstrated that fashion thrives even in downturns.
The Power of the Press
In the pre-digital age, fashion shows relied heavily on the press to connect designers with customers. Show reviews held immense power, and the lack of influencers and smartphones made it a closed shop. Fashion editors like Lowri Turner, who developed show photos in dark rooms, had a significant impact on a designer’s success. The press’s influence was instrumental in launching the careers of rising stars like Alexander McQueen.
A Fashion Week Like No Other
London Fashion Week stands out for its unique venues, ranging from leaky warehouses to grand historic buildings. Designers have transformed spaces like the National Portrait Gallery, Tate Britain, and even an old underground station into stunning showcases of their collections. The event has also been known for its lively after-parties, where fashion insiders and celebrities mingle, creating unforgettable moments.
A Bright Future for London Fashion Week
As London Fashion Week marks its 40th anniversary, leading designers and industry figures reflect on its legacy and look to the future. Christopher Kane, part of the influential Saint Martins generation, believes that London has produced the best talent in the world and hopes for its continued success. He encourages future designers to be radical and different, to create memorable and impactful collections. Despite challenges, London Fashion Week remains a beacon of creativity and innovation in the fashion world.
